Goats' cheeses

These can range from a soft, spreadable young cheese with a mild flavour, to a well-matured, strong, zesty, very goaty-flavoured one.

For eating, I like the strong-flavoured French Crottin de Chavignol, the English Chabis, or Mine Gabhar, which is made in County Wexford, Ireland.

The log-shaped Chèvre, dusted in ashes, is a medium-matured softer goats’ cheese. For a fresh farmhouse goats’ cheese with a milder flavour that also grills very well, Perroche, made in Herefordshire, is superb. But because the quantity of goats’ cheese made on farms fluctuates with the seasons, it is often in short supply.

There are farm-made soft-rind goats’ cheeses labelled Welsh or Somerset, which are fine for cooking.Goats’ cheeses in general are good for cooking. For a strong flavour, choose Crottin de Chavignol; farm-made soft-rind goats’ cheeses labelled Welsh or Somerset will be mellower.

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