First – it is said to have the finest flavour of all – is the Dover sole.

This is a flat fish, weighing anything from 8 oz up to 2 lb (225-900 g), white on the underside with its speckled grey camouflage on the upper side, with a rounded not pointed head. Its flavour is best preserved by serving it simply grilled. Ask the fishmonger to skin it for you, then brush it with melted butter, and give it from about 4-6 minutes on each side under the hot grill, depending on thickness. It would be nice served with some parsley butter and lemon juice. I also believe that any fish (like meat) benefits in taste from being cooked on the bone instead of filleted.

Lemon sole is not as flavoursome as Dover sole but, skinned and filleted, lends itself to dressing up with sauces and other flavours. Fillets can be rolled and stuffed or made into goujons.

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