Haddock is a smaller white fish than cod, arguably with a finer flavour – they certainly think so in Yorkshire, where this is the first choice for fish and chips. It is gorgeous eaten pristinely fresh, with or without batter, but sadly is over-fished and under threat.

It is also particularly good smoked, so much so that if you are ever offered haddock in France smoked fish is what you will get (fresh haddock there goes by the, to us, amusing name of colin).

Smoked haddock: Finnan haddock is the most famous in this group and always sold on the bone. Best cooked, I think, in the oven with a little milk to provide steam, and a generous amount of butter dotted over.

Arbroath smokies are young haddock (or occasionally whiting) that have been de-headed and gutted but left whole till they are smoked to a dark, almost bronze, colour. They’re delicious eaten hot – because they’re already cooked, all you need to do is brush with melted butter on the outside and with a good knob of butter inside, then place in a hot oven for a few minutes to warm through.

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