Boursin is a commercially made cream cheese with a strong flavouring of garlic and herbs, which is sometimes rolled in crushed peppercorns.

Cooking tames it a bit and I think it’s a natural partner for the baked potato. So, if you ever feel like treating yourself and want something supremely soothing and comforting, just bake yourself the biggest potato you can lay your hands on, then cut it in half and, as you do, listen carefully to the inviting crackle and crunch of the skin as the knife goes in. Scoop the potato out, mix with your preferred filling – boursin is ideal – and savour it in all its humble, simple glory.

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