At their best July to September

Chefs and cooks seem to have an endless debate about aubergines: to salt and drain, or not to salt and drain. I’m for the former. I do take the point that the modern aubergine has evolved to a state where it does not contain bitter juices, but the juices are there, nonetheless, and I find salting and draining gets rid of excess moisture and concentrates the flavour – there’s nothing worse than a watery aubergine.

Aubergines also have a capacity to absorb other flavours, so are great mixed with tomatoes and spices, cheese or pulses. They also absorb oil at an incredible rate, so frying is not recommended. I find the best way to cook them is either by oven-roasting or char-grilling.

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