New seasonal recipes from the Weekend Telegraph: week 1, walnuts

Forty years ago, when we bought our Suffolk cottage and discovered we were the proud owners of a walnut tree, the locals informed us that every Suffolk cottage had to have one to ward off the witches. So far so good – no witches have been forthcoming. Neither at the time were many wal¬nuts, though we were fascinated to discover – when we were making some structural alterations a few years ago – the ingenious use of walnut shells to provide cavity insulation. How clever.
It’s part of the joy of living in the country, these links with the past, and while our ancestors may have been a tad superstitious, they certainly knew a thing or two about keeping a cottage cosy and warm during the winter months.

Anyway, all this brings me to what has been happening in my kitchen this week. Since the summers are growing warmer and wetter we are getting huge crops of walnuts, not from the original tree which was blown down one stormy night, but from two seedlings (son and daughter of) which have grown into fine specimens, and at present we are frantically trying to use up the rest of last year’s crop, which are still good. The sweetness of the nuts is perfectly preserved inside their airtight shells, provided you dry each year’s crop by spreading them out on a tray in an airing cupboard for about a week in the autumn.

So-called ‘wet walnuts’ straight off the tree, with their freshly formed nuts, are also very sweet and great served with cheese. There will probably be a good crop everywhere this year and so should be available if you look out for them. Last year’s can still be found in their shells, if you want the best of all options for the recipes here.

We find the best way to crack them is by using a small hammer on a flat surface and giving them a sharp tap on the seam: to get 110g doesn’t take that much time if you are in the mood. But if you buy them ready shelled, in halves or pieces, though not as sweet (and provided they are still in date) they will still have retained their rich distinctive flavour. Beware of old shelled walnuts from the back of your cupboard – age makes them rancid and bitter.

My first recipe is a nostalgic return to a family favourite from the 1970s. In those days frosting was rather complicated and time-consuming, but with the advent of ready-rolled fondant the whole process is simple and the result every bit as good. One thing worth mentioning is that soft-whipped vegetable fat – sold in tubs – makes moister and lighter sponge cakes than butter, and because the flavour of the walnuts is very pronounced I’m going for lightness here.

Iced English Walnut Cake
Pasta with walnut sauce
Caramelised toffee walnut tarts with clotted cream