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Head chef Shay Cooper has just won his first Michelin star, so what better excuse than to visit The Bingham for lunch, asks Delia Online editor Jo Hill? The restaurant, on the banks of the Thames in Richmond, is stylish but in an understated way, with plenty of taupe and dark brown in evidence. Shay’s cooking style – seasonal, fresh, simple, clean flavours and the fact that my starter arrived strewn with tiny flower petals – reminded me of Skye Gyngell’s cooking just up the road at Petersham Nurseries, with a set lunch that offers great value for money at £19.50 for 2 courses; £23 for 3 courses.

Everything I ate was so good I could have licked my plate! Warm English asparagus with Parmesan Royale, home-cured bresaola and broad bean vinaigrette combined the grassiness of asparagus with a creamy Parmesan mousse; my main course of sea bream with crushed peas, asparagus, clams and hollandaise sauce was simple and ambrosial and the dessert was the icing on the cake, as it were and the most gorgeous thing I’ve eaten all year: Vanilla parfait with shortbread crumbs and raspberry and violet consommé: think creamy parfait rolled in crisp, buttery crumbs offset by sharp raspberry sauce. Brilliant.

 The Bingham is now in my little black book of favourite places. Please go and check out this lovely boutique hotel – you won’t be disappointed. The Bingham, 61-63 Petersham Road, Richmond, Surrey TW10 6UT; 020 8940 0902; www.thebingham.co.uk

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