Anchovies
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Probably one of the most significant ingredients of all. Not only are they supremely good and highly prized in their own right, they are also very effective in enhancing the flavour of other ingredients.
From my studies of 18th-century cooking in England I know that a barrel of anchovies was indispensable in many kitchens to enliven all sorts of recipes. ‘But I don’t like anchovies,’ some of you are thinking. True, they are strong and gutsy – an acquired taste, you say – but they do grow on you.
So keep trying a little here and a little there until you acquire it, and don’t forget that most people who say they don’t like anchovies do like Worcestershire sauce, in which anchovies are the main ingredient.
Anchovy essence
This is also a great flavour-enhancer and is the British equivalent of the fish sauce of the Far East. As such, it can be used in oriental recipes when fish sauce is not available.
Serves 2Chicken Tonnato
More usually made with veal in Italy, this summery recipe works just as well with chicken for a light and unusual supper dish or dinner party treat.
Serves 4-6Hot Smoked Salmon Salad with Quails' Eggs
Inspired by the classic salade Nicoise, this sophisticated cheat version uses ready-cooked quail's eggs for the ultimate in lazy preparation.
Serves 2Grilled Fish with Chilli Anchovies and Roasted Pepper Sauce
In this quick and easy supper dish, black olives, anchovies and a bought red pepper sauce are used to coat white fish before grilling. Serve with seasonal veg or salad.
Serves 4Lentil, Bean and Anchovy Salad
Just add bread to this lovely beany salad - a cheap and easy meal for very little money and proof that you don't need to spend a lot to eat royally.
Serves 4-6Chick Pea Salad
Anchovies, capers, parsley and olives - plus garlicky mayo - give this bean salad plenty of punch. Chickpeas and haricots verts are a brilliant source of fibre and highly nutritious. Vegetarians could leave out the anchovies.
