Available all year round
Celery is as English as the Stilton cheese it’s often partnered with: fresh, crunchy and crisp in the autumn, it is perhaps enjoyed best of all with a good cheese board, some fresh-shelled walnuts and a glass of vintage port. Originally, the older varieties of so-called ‘dirty’ celery from the flat black-earthed Fenlands of East Anglia had a short season – from October to January.
If you’re lucky enough to eat some, there is much washing to do, but the flavour is exceptional, particularly after a light frost, when it’s sweetest of all. However, a really severe frost can wipe the whole crop out, so growing it can be a hazardous occupation, and in the past during hard winters there was sometimes none available. English Fenland growers have overcome this by not only developing new varieties that can be grown in summer, but have also overcome the severities of a British winter by growing English varieties in the warm climate of Spain. This means extremely good celery is available practically all year round, with a gap from about April to June. If you can get ‘dirty’ celery in November it is worth all the tedious washing, but it’s also good to have English varieties available all year.
To prepare: First of all, remove the tough, large, outer stalks, and as these are usually distinctively stringy, take a sharp paring knife and pare off the strings. Now trim off the outer skin around the root and cut the head vertically, so that some of the sweet, edible root is still intact, then cut into 6-8 layered vertical strips.
Ready-cooked chestnuts allow you to make this quck, easy, low-fat soup in no time at all and you'll be well rewarded: the chestnuts add richness and a sweet flavour for a perfect winter soup.
A spicy low-fat soup that has a lovely kick of Tabasco and balsamic to complement the tomatoes. You can even add a shot of vodka if you've a mind to!
Pot roasts used to be very fashionable and deserve a revival - wintry one-pot casseroles like this one make the most of seasonal root veg and help you to feed the family cheaply.
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Split peas and bacon make this a hearty, appetising and filling soup for a winter's day. Incidentally it's so-named after the 'peasouper' fogs that embroiled London in earlier times.