An unusual alliance of chefs in the very best restaurants and package holidays to Greece and Spain has finally cracked the British aversion to squid.

Scary though it may look, squid has a mild flavour and – when cooked correctly – a dense but toothsome texture. Chewy squid has been over-cooked. The trick is to cook squid either exactly until all the flesh has become a proper, solid white colour (as opposed to the translucent appearance when raw), or to simmer it for 20 minutes or more.

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